Choas and Cruel Angel's Thesis

Chaos


Headed up to Redhill this morning with Choas(8a) being my main objective.I had spent a few sessions on it in summer and really wanted to do it before I left for Rocklands.The funny thing with this problem was that every time I went to try it,I was certain that I would get it.Well,that never happened and I started to hate working it.I often questioned myself as to why I was bothering to go back to it when I wasnt enjoying the actuall climbing.After sending it I still dont know but the feeling of success after so much hard work was good enough.I had figured out "the sequence" in summer and it was just a matter of putting it all together...so I thought.

Before going to Chaos I went up to warm up on the easy problems in the Vajra area.Conditions were amazing.The air was cold and crisp and the rock even colder.I knew today would be the day.
So around 12pm I made my way to Chaos.This was the beginning of the battle which would last 3,5hours in duration.My main problem was getting my left heel perfect and the times when I did get it,I couldnt bounce up to the better crimp.(my method involved bouncing from slopey crimp to better crimp and then flagging right foot under roof to get ready to palm up into the"undercling")
I had stuck that move many a time in isolation on previous trips but just couldnt link it from the start.I was getting seriously frustrated and nearly gave up on numerous occasions.Finally I tried to do the palming move to the undercling from the 1st shit crimp.I had tried this in summer but couldnt do it.I could only do it from the higher crimp.Well today was different and I managed to stick it.This bought some new hope with it and I started trying it from the beginning but kept fucking the heelhook up.A couple of abusive outbreaks later followed by some deep breaths and I did it.Whilst standing on top of the boulder trying to come to terms with what I had just done,I noticed blood pissing out of my right index finger????People familiar with the problem might be wondering how thats possible as there are no sharp holds for the right hand.I also dont know but apon inspection of the boulder it seems it started from the slopers you match on(I didnt match,just went up with left hand from starting hold)??weird

After a cigi break I went on over to Cruel Angel's Thesis(7c).I had briefly tried this once before after a failed Chaos session but strugggled with the move off the crimp to the jug.Feeling strong and still full of adrenaline,I just threw myself at it.After a couple of coccyx breaking dabs/falls,I stuck the jug wrenching my body upwards during the cutloose to avoid dabbing.Its actually a really cool problem despite being so low.