Weekend Worrior of 2009

As stated in my previous blog I tried to head up to Rocklands every 2nd weekend in 2009.I will comment on the sends I managed to get on video.

Louder Than Bombs 7c
Well this problem, in my opinion, looks shit but the climbing is different and fun.The main problem I had with this was figuring out the beta that worked for me.My first sequence involved cutting loose matched on the jug but this always ended up with me dabbing the tree.As I hate changing sequences,I ended up trying to hold the cutloose harder each time.This never worked.

So one weekend during a dryspell of rain I made quick to the problem which I presumed would be dry as it is in a cave and only the topout juggy holds would be wet which would be alright.Thank god I got to it just in time as it started pissing while I was there.Stubborn old me carried on trying the same sequence I figured on previous attempts until finally I realized it would never go for me like this.So after studying it during a rest I spotted another possible way and which apart from the 1st two moves was completly different moves.I tried my newly studied beta from the 2nd move onwards and managed to do it from there straight away..stoked.It was harder to get into that cutloose position but I knew it would be the only way.It involved cutloosing sideways, with right hand on undercling,left hand on sloper and catching the jug as my foot came off instead of having footlocks under the roof with my right hand on jug,left on sloper and cutting into tree.Anyway,I sent next go from the start.



Powerline 6C+

Ok,Im not too sure of the name or grade of this problem but it is really aesthetic and cool.
I had gone to look at this area(Powerlines) on a rest day as it is a 20 second walk from the car and this problem stood out to me.The area is basically full of great warmups so one weekend I went there and warmed up on this problem.It is quite high and the topout holds look very fragile.As I was on my own with only 1 pad,I had to carefully decide on the best place to position it.I ended up putting it under the fragile topout holds but thank god I flashed it.(I dont believe a boulder can be onsighted,just my opinion)


Hole in One 7c+

After Powerlines I went back to the campsite with my sights set on I Believe I Can Fly 7c up at Arch Valley.This is a cool dyno but due to my lack of crimp strength at that time I could only give it a few goes before my fingers couldnt crimp the holds anymore..times have changed since then...I think
I was then unsure of what I should try and just thought I would go and check out Hole In One around the corner,another dyno problem.I didnt have high expectations but after only a few tries I managed to send.Again with 1 pad and no spotters.The topout isnt hard but should you fall your fucked on a jaggered slab behind you.
I find bouldering alone forces me not to just jump off or chicken out.On problems like this and Powerlines you dont have a choice once you get into a certain position unless you have a spotter.It also makes the send alot more rewarding as adrenalin is pumping more..good stuff