Tuesday, July 20, 2010

About Time

Its clearly been awhile since I posted my last blog.I am now back at home for a few days to catch up on some much needed rest.I have had time to update the blog in Rocklands but it just seems like such an effort.
So lets get to the details of my trip so far.It certainly hasnt turned out the way I intended it to.My 1st day of climbing was at Roadside and I was keen to get on Caroline.It took a little while to figure out the best beta that worked for me and after consistently doing the crux move I began to start linking it.I managed to get past the crux twice only to fall off the last move each time...frustrating to say the least.The next day a couple of us headed out to the Sassies.This was my 1st time going to the area and I was blown away by the quality of the problems there.Arjan managed an impressive onsight of splash of red and watching this guy climb just made me amped to train my ass off once my time in Rocklands comes to an end.To cut a long story short,I didnt climb for the following six days due to fucked up hands(skin/internal tissue).It felt like my hands had been roasted in a fire and simple tasks like zipping open my tent were agonizing.This was a major mental fuck up for me and I ended up gaining some weight those six days.Once I was able to use my hands again I slowly got back into the climbing.My buddy Jay,came down so we would just go and climb easy things to get back into shape.
Here is a list of the problems I have done so far:

Throw Yourself Away 7c+(changed beta and sent)
Sunset Arete 7c (wasnt on the list but went quick)
Shadows of Ourselves 7c (1st go 2nd session)
Scorpion 7c (a fucking cool problem at 8 day rain,quick send with the americans)
The Skink 7b+ (3rd go)
Chateau Rouge 7b+ (3rd go)
Maniac 7b
Roadside Slab 7a+(not my style,balancy small crimps)
Matie 7a
The Fin 7a
Bushel of Dildo's 7a
and lots of easy things

Can do all the moves on Witness the Sickness 8a+(now that a hold broke making it manly again) but it really fucks up my arm so avoid it most of the time.
The Hatchling is also something I wanna get back on when I return,feel pretty good on it.
Well,the scale says I have put on 4kg since being in Rocklands so this rest week is dedicated to running and loosing that weight.
I am highly motivated to train and work on my weaknesses which are easy to spot when climbing all the time.This is my goal for when I settle back down in the Cape...TRAIN FUCKING HARD.
It has also been great hanging out with all the phsyched people up there and Im loving meeting all the different nationalities.So many cool peep.
Its go big time once I get back....amped



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